Chains of fortresses grimace at each other across Isarco, Adige and Talvera, the south-running streams of the Alps. To judge by the frescos in their banqueting halls – Tristan, Siegfried, King Arthur and even Julius Caesar rub shoulders – they castellated this region long before the age of chivalry. Unlike Trentino castles they are domesticated, with slender towers, square or conical red caps and toy portcullises, like nursery forts. Few have had a defensive role since the pugnacious Counts of Tyrol retired beyond the Brenner in 1420. They keep a benevolent eye on romantic landscapes and are museums of pictures, arms and armour. Pearl of the region is Coira, west of Merano, home of the Trapps since 1504, rich in arabesques and weapons. Maretsch has Biblical frescos, Castel Guardia pinewood panelling, Tirolo a stone bestiary, Sant’ Erasmo an antique painted chapel. Some 120 castles are visitable, all within comfortable reach of Bolzano and Merano by excursion bus. The castle Roncolo stands guard over Bolzano itself. In the 19thC a canny mayor presented the ruin to Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria, who restored it beautifully and handed it back.