Walled in by cliffs, the town climbs on zigzag streets. It seems incredible that little Amalfi was once a Republic of the Sea. Above the shingly beach (windsurfing, water-skiing) the sea-front shops and stalls are bright with relatively inexpensive gold-and-pink-coral trinkets. Visit the cathedral (supposed bones of St Andrew in its crypt) and look down on its green-and-yellow cupola from the back streets. Try the woodland walk up Amalfi old mill-stream, where they hand-make paper, to the cliff-top village of Pogerola.