On Routes 26, 27, 45 km east of Mont Blanc. It was originally Augusta, garrison town of Rome’s north-west frontier where the legions recovered from, or fortified themselves against, mountain sickness on the St Bernard Pass. Superficially a tourist trap, Aosta has more in it than meets the eye. If you can stay two hours, see the Arch of Augustus, built when the city was founded in 25 BC; the Praetorian Gate; the Roman theatre and amphitheatre; and the slender graceful columns of the cloisters at Sant’ Orso’s collegiate church.

The outlook on all sides proclaims Aosta’s strategic importance in Roman times. Northward, the tremendous Alpine arch curves round – including Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa. South-ward the peaks of the Gran Paradiso stand guard see Valle d’Aosta. Nostalgia trips for motorists who recall the gradients and treacherous gravel of the Alpine crossings are offered by city bus companies. To the Grand St Bernard is 34 km. There is now a 7-km tunnel under the worst bits and it attracts much more traffic than in the old days. To the Little St Bernard is 56 km and there is no tunnel here. The route has been drained of its international traffic and is like a country lane.

Detour – St Vincent

On Route 26, 30 km East of Aosta. Sheltered by pines and chestnut forests, the resort has capitalized on its mild climate and its hill-top Fons Salutis, a bicarbonate 021spring (cable-car). Although not a major ski centre, there are clay-pigeon shoots, tennis tournaments and an Olympic swimming-pool in a clean and stylish setting. Energetic walkers can follow well-marked trails along Alpine foothills towards the glaciers of Rutor.