450 km north of Sydney on the New England Highway. This is a university town, with a population of just over 20,000. It’s relatively cool up here on the New England plateau. In the autumn, the leaves turn golden and russet (just like in the other New England) and in winter they even have frosts.

Armidale is the home of the University of New England, as well as several smart private schools, and parts of it have a definite academic feel. There are no less than two cathedrals, several church spires, a number of fine old houses, and the New England Regional Art Museum (www.neram.com.au; open Tuesday – Friday 10 am – 5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am – 4 pm, closed Mondays). The latter is a cut above most provincial Australian art museums, but you’d hardly expect it to inspire a brilliant college student to run away to Paris to become an artist.

There are several spectacular waterfalls in the region, where the rivers run off the eastern edge of the New England Plateau. The best used to be the Wollomombi Falls, which are 45 km east of town in the Oxley Rivers Park. These drop almost 500 m and were once thought to be the highest in Australia, however recent studies have revealed they’re likely second or third. There are now several camping and picnic grounds set up close to the falls, as well as hikes and walks designed to showcase the natural beauty of the falls and surrounding area (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au).

There are also the spectacular Ebor Falls, some 40 km further on (down the road to Dorrigo). And on the way you get the bonus of passing Point Lookout, with its breathtaking mountain views. Though camping is not allowed near Edor Falls there is close by Cathedral Rock National Park where you can: www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/cathedral-rock-national-park.