Arts Centre Melbourne, (www.artscentremelbourne.com.au), St Kilda Road, is an arts complex of modern buildings south of the Yarra River at Princes Bridge, opposite Queen Victoria Gardens. There are three main buildings. The Theatres Building has a distinctive 115-m tower, which according to a resident I know looks like ‘an anorexic modern version of the Eiffel Tower’. Judge for yourself (many have said far worse). The State Theatre in this building is the home of the Australian Ballet, whose tours of America and Europe have caused a sensation.

Hamar Hall by Princes Bridge is home to the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra. When they play the standard classics, they’re accused of being too stuffy; but as soon as they play any modern stuff, everyone is up in arms. But you’ll find they’re easily good enough to ride out this sort of criticism.

I’ve saved the best till last. Further down the Kilda Road, in a bluestone building that succeeds in being both modern and stuffy, is the National Gallery of Victoria www.ngv.vic.gov.au, free (open daily 10 am – 5 pm, except Tuesdays).

It has the most comprehensive selection of Australian art in the country. Like the art of any fully developed artistic nation, when they’re good, they’re very good, but when they’re bad… The paintings range from early colonial to the latest contemporary. Best of the former: John Glover. Best of the latter: Sidney Nolan. Also has fine works by Dürer, Blake and Picasso.

The Victorian Arts Centre includes a Performing Arts Museum, and the Sidney Myer Music Bowl, which is across St Kilda Road in the park. In winter this is converted into an ice-skating rink.