Guarded by a massive tortoise and a gigantic mushroom – typical of contorted rock formations of Sardinia’s north and north-east coasts. This once-run-down village is now the heart of the Costa Smeralda. For something different, take the track for Li Mura, 8 km along the Luogosanto road. It has ‘giants’ graves’ – a half-circle of monoliths and a corridor connecting cells where these unknown Titans were laid in the 3rdC BC.