The origins of the Aussie wine business have long since vanished beneath the centre of Sydney. This is where the first vineyards in the continent were planted, shortly after the colony was established. Alas, the wine produced here wasn’t much good, and as Sydney expanded the vineyards were overrun and not replaced. An exception was at the town of Camden, which now lies outside the sprawling outskirts of Sydney on the Hume Highway, just after it starts its long climb into the mountains.

Settlers first reached Camden in 1805, and within 20 years a Scottish family, the Macarthurs, was producing a sizeable vintage each year. A decade later, vineyards were planted further north in New South Wales – at Hunter Valley, which runs inland from Newcastle. Not until a couple decades later did German immigrants begin planting the vineyards of South Australia. These soon expanded and spread. As a result, South Australia is now a major producer of Australian wine. However, New South Wales continues to produce wine in considerable quantities, and has a few of the best vintages in the land. More recently, Western Australia, especially the Margaret River area, has an international reputation for quality mid price and fine wines.

It wasn’t until the mid 1960s that Australian wine really became big business. This was helped by a gradual shift in Aussie drinking habits. The massive annual production of beer didn’t reduce, but Australians felt able to take on board a rapidly increasing amount of wine as well. In the 1970s, Australian wine started to be seen in European, especially British, retailers, followed by North American. Much of what’s sold in the northern hemisphere is supermarket junk, but if you are prepared to spend more than say £8.99/US$10.00, there’s quality to compare with any other New World producer, especially in powerful reds.