Generations of writers have described it as the secret paradise of the lakes: consequently it receives more visitors than a small town far from main roads might expect. Here Como’s two ‘legs’ join the ‘trunk’ of the lake and some turbulence of wind and current makes for exciting sailing (there is a sailing school here). The lake shore between Bellagio and Como is the most colourful of the whole region. Down the three corridors of water there are wonderful vistas. A network of woodland paths covers the point of land. On rising ground behind the town is Villa Serbelloni (http://www.bellagiolakecomo.com/villa-serbelloni-garden), sumptuous successor to a residence of the younger Pliny (see Pliny, uncle and nephew). It is now a conference centre run by the Rockefeller Foundation but you can join guided tours of the lavishly-stocked gardens.