www.ville-bourges.fr The province of Berry lies at the heart of France, and Bourges is its chief town. A substantial settlement by the time the Romans arrived to sack it, Bourges later rose to prominence in the 14thC under the guidance of Jean de Berry, whose elegant and cultured court rivalled that of the dukes of Burgundy at Dijon. It positively flourished during the 15thC, as did Jacques Coeur, a local goldsmith-turned-merchant moneybags, and Minister of Finance to Charles VII. The local tourist board has alighted upon the symbolic Coeur (heart) as a device for promoting the region, and devised the Route Jacques Coeur for which Bourges is a starting point.

Chief among the town’s treasures is the Cathédrale de Saint-Etienne. Being somewhat off the beaten track, its glories are rarely swamped by coach parties, so there is plenty of room to stroll around and admire the elegant flying buttresses and superb west facade adorned with scenes from the Last Judgement. The interior is dramatically high and powerfully plain, inset with stained glass. The best of this (quite the equal to Chartres) is in the choir. Cleaned and restored to extraordinary brilliance it dates from the 13thC. Guided tours visit the crypt containing Jean de Berry’s tomb. Snails with little faces grin from the curly cabbage leaves carved around the doorway.

The Old Town stretches downhill north of the cathedral in a muddle of cobblestone streets. On rue Moyenne, stop off at the PTT for a quick inspection of its carved figures wearing 16thC headgear and fashionable long-toed slippers. Then cut across to the Palais Jacques-Coeur and a further riot of exuberant carvings including blind windows with stone onlookers. Regular tours explore this gem of 15thC domestic architecture, largely unfurnished but crammed with curios and innovations such as the indoor privys. Bourges has restored several fine Renaissance mansions to house its museums including the Musée du Berry, which displays local history exhibits in the Hôtel Cujas; the Musée Estève, which houses modern arts; and the sumptuous Hôtel Lallement, 6 rue Bourbonnoux, furnished in rich 17th-18thC style, found just off rue Coursarlon with its shops and half-timbered medieval buildings leading down to place Gordaine. For opening times, addresses and other information on these musuems see www.ville-bouges.fr