In the heart of Périgord Vert, edged by woods, walnut orchards and rolling pastures, Brantôme sits on the banks of the River Dronne and basks in the reflection of its elegant white abbey buildings. The original abbey was founded by Charlemagne in 769, rebuilt in the 11thC and added to over the centuries. The Gothic Eglise Abbatiale stands alongside a lovely Romanesque belfry, while the 18thC abbey buildings house the Hôtel de Ville and local museum.

From 1589 until his death in 1614, roving soldier-of-fortune Pierre de Bourdeilles was forced to retire here after a fall from his horse. The rôle of lay abbot was far from arduous, so he amused himself by writing a warts-and-all account of courtly life, much to the distress of his fellow courtiers.

The family seat, Château de Bourdeilles (10 km S via the D78) combines a business-like 13thC fortress and a 16thC annexe built to accommodate a proposed visit by Catherine de’ Medici (who never turned up). As well as terrific views of the Dronne, the château boasts a remarkable collection of European furniture.