Its key position at a junction of valleys gave it importance from 1,000 BC at least – the date of its necropolis of 2,000 rock-cut graves, many of the Mycenean ‘beehive’ type, 1 km north. This town of narrow medieval streets was once ‘Queen of the Mountains’ and amid modern developments some handsome architecture survives. From main square to Santa Maria del Monte’s church a long flight of steps is paved with coloured majolica tiles. The ceramics museum has collections of Sicilian potters’ work from prehistory to the present day.