20 km east of Genoa. Sea-eggs on the rocks, baby octopi on the fishmonger’s slab, aquarium and naval museum – typical of a dozen Riviera fishing villages, Camogli was also a cradle of sea-captains. In sailing-ship days you heard the Camogli dialect in the bars of Cape Town and Buenos Aires. It is also the village of gargantuan frying-pans, brought out for a grand banquet at the May feast of San Fortunato. Tombs of the Dorias, potentates of Genoa, lie in the San Fruttuoso monastery (www.visitfai.it/sanfruttuoso/) next door. Newly-arrived scuba divers in the bay rush ashore to report the discovery of a submerged statue. It is Christ of the Abyss, visible from above, casualty of a shipwreck long ago.