A sacred mountain for Catalans, Canigou stands a snowcapped head and shoulders above the Têt and Tech valleys, dominating the Roussillon plain. On June 21, French and Spanish Catalans converge on the summit to light the first of the Feux de Saint-Jacques. Torches lit from the sacred flame are then used to fire dozens of bonfires in various Catalan villages, the prelude to a wild evening of dancing and high-spirited bonfire leaping.

According to the records, the King of Aragon, Pierre III, was the first to scale the 2,784-m peak in 1285. If you want to retrace his footsteps, by car or on foot, start out on the rough 15-km track off the D27 south of Prades, near Fillols. From the Chalet des Cortalets, it is a strenuous 1.5-hour hike to the Catalan flag planted at the top. Sensible clothes and footwear are essential; check weather reports and take a large-scale map. The tourist offices at Prades and Vernethave details of jeep hire and guided expeditions.

See also Walking in the French Pyrenees, this section.