Home of the Campania Museum, where you trace the confused history of the Naples region, Old Capua in particular: from Etruscan to Samnite, from Roman to Lombard, from Norman to Swabian conquests. Columns and carvings from those eras make incongruous buttressings for modern buildings. They have all been pillaged from Santa Maria Capua Vetere (‘Old Capua’) 4 km east, but that classical city still has archaeological riches. See the Campanian amphitheatre, built when gladiators from the famous Capua training school made their debuts; also a 3rdC temple crypt of Mithras. Its explicit frescos first revealed the nature of the initiation rites of a Persian cult which for a time looked like annihilating Christianity.