The città vecchia is enclosed within a 13thC citadel. Giorgione the painter was born here and his house is still standing after 500 years. See his Madonna in the cathedral: its exuberant colouring scandalized his contemporaries; see also the Teatro Accademico, a riot of pink and gold inside, completely over the top. It is visitable when not in use for jazz concerts.

Detour – Villa Emo

Eight km north-east of Castelfranco Veneto at Fanzolo is Villa Emo, a Palladian jewel in stone. A long avenue leads up to the porch where Zelotti’s mythological frescos begin. They continue through the house. No faded masterpieces here: the colours have retained an almost psychedelic brilliance. See www.villaemo.org.