The old fishing town, trembling on sea cliffs, looks as though it fell off the back of a lorry. Bars and craft shops are taking over, the new Cefalù with hotels for the glitterati a few km along the coast being a major resort. The 12thC cathedral with its two solid towers and pillared arches along its facade is formidable inside and out. See also the Mandralisca Museum With a fine portrait by Antonello di Messina and rare antiquities. A pre-Hellenic Temple of Diana, possibly 9thC BC, has a commanding position on a rocky summit. South of the coast, where the Madonie mountains rise sharply to 1,980 m, there is skiing.