The D53 wiggles 8 km north and west of Castelnaud, past the private Château de Fayrac on the river bank and through the walnut groves, to Château Les Milandes. Guided tours cover a bizarre history from the château’s 15thC origins as the seat of the de Caumont family to its transformation into a multi-cultural village de monde for the adopted children of cabaret artiste Josephine Baker from the 1930s to the 60s.