On a stretch of the Po rich in ancient castles and stately homes, Colorno has one of the best castellated palaces (see www.reggiadicolorno.it). Corner towers rise above a ground-level arcade. It was a Farnese residence, built in the 16th-17thC. A few kilometres west on the byroad to Cremona are two more antiquated strongholds, San Secondo (1448) and Roccabianca (1460), with the remains of elaborate interior decorations.