North and South of Ravenna. The Adriatic has retreated and orchards cover the roadstead where Caesar’s galleys lay at anchor. For 32 km on either side of Ravenna’s ship canal, belts of umbrella pines have sprung up. On the footpaths and riding tracks you might be in a forest, though you hear the sea lapping a sandy shore. The pineta (pinewood) has lizards, doves and nightingales, the air is sweet with juniper, acacia, robinia and honeysuckle. Dante and Byron meditated in these green aisles of the Ravenna coast.

The chief resorts are Cervia, a 17thC planned town, and Milano Marittimo next door, arrived at by avenues through the pineta, much frequented by Italians for its sailing, motor-boating, water-skiing, riding and a lively night life. Northward, the Marina di Ravenna and Marina Romea are backed by a denser pineta with peaceful riding trails. The latter, one of the most exclusive resorts, has an open-air theatre and is gradually transforming its chain of small lakes into a grand sailing area.

More exclusive still is Lido di Spina, a complex of seaside cottages individually styled and designed for those with money to spend. On this stretch of the Green Coast Garibaldi waded ashore in 1849 with his dying wife and unborn child in his arms and the Austrians combing the woods for him. Porto Garibaldi, named for him, destroyed in the Second World War, blooms again as a resort. Behind it are the Valli di Comacchio, a wilderness of sandy causeways, rectilinear lagoons and canals. The reeds harbour wildlife, especially cranes, despite the continual hum of dynarmos at the pumping stations. Comacchio is a battle honour of the British Royal Marines, who fought desperate actions here in 1944. The town has mini-canals along its little streets and is an eel-curing centre – September is the month when immense draughts of them are hauled from the netted sea gate. Sunk in the mud nearby is the Etruscan necropolis of Spina.