Off the Great Northern Highway, 230 km north east of Broome. The small town of Derby (population 3,200) stands at the mouth of the Fitzroy River, the greatest of the Kimberley rivers, which rises 500 km away on the slopes of Mount Wells (983 m).

Derby is the administrative centre for the regional Aboriginal reservations. Earlier attitudes towards these native Australians was less benevolent here-abouts than it is today. A reminder of those days is the Boab Prison Tree, 7 km south of town. Not so long ago, this thousand-year-old tree was used as a lock-up for Aborigines – the maximum number squeezed into its 14-m circumference was said to have been 20.

This uncultured European behaviour is brought into sharp contrast by the culture of the people to whom the tree really belongs. Derby has a number of galleries which specialize in Aboriginal art. As with all art, some of this is overhyped rubbish and some is sublime – with a fair amount in between. (When your assessment of these categories doesn’t coincide with the gallery owner’s, keep your mouth shut – you’re on to a bargain.) The best-known art of the Kimberley features the mysterious Wandjina.

Derby is surrounded by vast mudflats. During the dry season these are baked solid by the sun, apart from when they are overrun by the occasional high tide. During the rainy season they become one huge squelch.

There are organized cruises and trips along the coast. The best of these are run by Buccaneer Sea Safaris: see www.derbytourism.com.au for information about them and other local tours.