400 km south of Sydney. This small town began life as a whaling port early in the 19thC. But it nearly became something more. About 9 km south of town on Twofold Bay you can see the remains of one of Australia’s great follies. In the 1840s an ambitious English speculator called Benjamin Boyd planned to establish a brand-new settlement here, called Boydtown. The aim was to set up a rival to Sydney, which would take over as capital of the colony. As is often the case with such entrepreneurs, a cash flow problem developed and Boyd did a bunk, last heard of somewhere in the South Seas. Boydtown, with its old Seahorse Inn, is still named after him – long after his creditors are dead and forgotten.

Because of its remoteness, Eden doesn’t become so crowded as some of the seaside spots nearer to Sydney and Melbourne. Be sure not to miss the Killer Whale Museum (open Monday – Saturday 9.15 am to 3.45 pm and Sunday 11.15 am to 3.45 pm, entry fee; www.killerwhalemuseum.com.au). The whaling industry is known for its tall stories, and this museum is no disappointment. Read all about the sailor who in 1891 fell into a whale’s mouth and was swallowed whole. He didn’t manage to get out until 15 hours later, by which time his hair had turned as white as if he’d seen a ghost. Then there’s the story about the killer whale called Old Tom… You can still see real whales making their way up the coast here from Antarctica each spring.