The town that champagne built, Epernay prospers beside the Marne south of Reims (26 km via the N51). On avenue de Champagne, the Hôtel de Ville occupies a house built for the Moët family, and across the street Moët et Chandon, 20 avenue de Champagne, offer electric train tours of their caves (some 30 km of tunnels), plus tastings and Napoleonic memorabilia (the Emperor forgot his hat after a visit).  Several other champagne houses entertain visitors; and if you want to stay over, try the convenient and comfortable hotel-restaurant Les Berceaux, FF; 13 rue des Berceaux; tel. 03 26 55 28 84.