Seemingly undisturbed by develop­ment since its 1849 settlement, French Gulch is still highly redolent of a 19thC gold-mining community and even keeps alive the two mainstays of early backwoods California – the French Gulch Hotel http://www.frenchgulchhotelbandb.com/), originally a brothel, and St. Rose’s Church – in fine states of preservation along Main Street.

Detour – Whiskeytown Lake

10 miles South East of French Gulch. Locals decant to Whiskeytown Lake when they fancy a spot of swimming, skin-diving, fishing, hunting, or simply sunbathing – although sunshine can be a rare commodity in these parts. The lake has pleasant, sandy banks. The usual complement of fishing and boat­ing equipment hire outlets line the lake, plenty of which will also rent out water-and jet-skis. For practical details, use the Visitor Information Center located on the lake’s easterly corner, where Hwy-299 meets John Kennedy Drive (+1 530 246 1225).