The connection with that other Gallipoli of First World War memory is only etymological: the word means ‘beautiful city’. More Aragonese than Greek or Italian, with its hexagonal fortress thrusting into the harbour, the town covers a low tongue of land within a circle of walls. Inside them, among winding streets and white houses built round little courtyards, you could be in old Tunis. The cathedral has a Baroque facade of dizzying complexity and the Hellenic fountain (1560) is worth looking at but Gallipoli as a town fails to live up to its situation. Immediately south are tourist villages and camping parks: Lido Piccolo on Via Galilei and San Giovanni (with a riding centre) 4 km south on the road to Leuca.