Between Bordeaux and Toulouse, and bordered to the north by the River Garonne, lies the peaceful region of Gascony. At its heart is the cathederal city of Auch, but Condom, (44km NW via D930), makes a lovely base. Here, the Hôtel des Trois Lys, FF, 38 rue Gambetta; tel. 05 62 28 33 33, www.lestroislys.com, is deliciously smart and small, with an inviting pool (no restaurant); Logis des Cordeliers, F-FF, rue des Cordeliers; tel. 05 62 28 03 68, www.logisdescordeliers.com, is less expensive, also with a pool and a separate restaurant set in a restored 14thC chapel. From Condom, you can visit the pretty bastide towns of Fourcès, Montreal and Plais-ance; the village of Laressingle, and the churches of Fiaran and La Romieu, all set in lush countryside.