Road and rail routes follow the Riviera di Levante (east) and Riviera di Ponente (west). The motorway to Livorno (‘Leghorn’), the Autostrada dei Fiori (‘of Flowers’), swings high above the old Via Aurelia from Rome. At right angles, railways, roads and footways entwine in the narrow ravine which splits Genoa’s bowl of hills like a central aisle, leading inland.

Detour – Capanne di Marcarola National Park

Off A26, 40 km North West of Genoa, 13 km East of Ovada. Broad-leaved woodland, home to foxes, squirrels, hares, game birds and perhaps a wild boar. In summer several village spires are seen above the level of two artificial lakes. The short road to the lakes is private.

Detour – Pegli

On Route 1, 10 km West of Genoa. Riviera beaches near Genoa are mostly rocky, pebbly and steeply shelving. Pegli is worth pausing at for its naval museum, the water-park and Oriental garden of Villa Pallavicini and the luxuriant flora of Villa Doria, both open to the public.