420 km north of Perth on the Brand Highway. This locality has a superb all-year-round climate, miles of fine beaches and some picturesque countryside. In the midst of it all, Geraldton comes as something of a disappointment, with its mundane port and wheat silos. Yet there are a couple of things worth seeing.

The architectural glory of Geraldton is the neo-Byzantine St Francis Xavier Cathedral. The interior is an unusual blend of Romanesque and Byzantine – bold and imaginative, or stylized and unoriginal – depending on your taste. The cathedral was completed in 1938, and is the work of Monsignor John Hawes, who spent 25 years on the project.

Hawes was an unusual man. He had been an architect before joining the priesthood, and was responsible for the design of several distinctive buildings here abouts. After he had finally completed his cathedral masterpiece, he left for the Caribbean, where he lived out his days in solitude on a remote island. Even more interesting is the Western Australia Museum (open 9.30 am to 4 pm all week, entry free; www.museum.wa.gov.au/museums/geraldton). This features fascinating relics from a number of old ships which have been wrecked along the coast – including the Batavia. Find out more: Houtman Abrolhos Islands and the Zuytdorp.

There is also Australia’s most significant WWII memorial here, the HMAS Syndey II Memorial. Completed in 2001, it’s quite a site and commemorates the 645 Australian soldiers who fought and died in the war. There are daily tours offered by the Geraldton Voluntary Tour Guides at 10.30 am.