80 km north east of Bundaberg. The Capricorn Group of coral reefs and cays form the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. Lady Elliot Island is at their southernmost tip. The island itself is a small coral cay, less than half a square kilometre in size. The hellish history of Lady Elliot Island is now all forgiven in the interests of its present ‘tourist paradise’ image.

First the bad news (as history usually is). Through the centuries hundreds of ships have come to grief on the various ray- and shark-infested reefs around here. In an effort to thwart this lemming-like nautical tradition, a lighthouse was built on the island in 1866. But this solitary posting proved so grim that the lighthouse keepers kept committing suicide. Next, the place was discovered by phosphate miners, who did their levelling best to eliminate the island from the map – but were prevented just in time. Meanwhile wild goats had ravaged the last vestiges of local vegetation.

Then came tourism, and Lady Elliot Island was transformed into a natural paradise. All ecologically incorrect goats were banished. In the twinkling of an eye (behind a diving mask) the rays and sharks were transformed into wonders of the deep, turtles were no longer looked upon as mere ingredients for excellent soup, bathers took the place of shipwrecked sailors, and the shrieking scavengers of the sea found themselves transformed into fully-fledged members of a first-class bird sanctuary. What had once been a horror was now billed as a haven of delight, which it really is. Unlike many other similar spots, Lady Elliot Island has not been ruined by luxury. There are no TV, no guest telephones, no air conditioning and a luggage limit. The accommodation at the unpretentious 41-room Eco Resort is in cabins. The only stand-up entertainers work behind the bar.

You reach the island by air from Bundaberg or Brisbane. And that’s it. The diving is superb, the white coral beach is a delight, and there’s excellent wildlife (undersea, in the air, but no goats). Yet despite the lack of luxury, don’t expect things to be cheap: nowadays everything is flown in, even the new lighthouse keepers. Two-night packages including flights start at around A$550 (www.ladyelliot.com.au).