Ethiopia’s largest lake is the size of an inland sea. The principal town on its SW shore, Bahir Dar, is known as The Riviera of Ethiopia – and it is, sort of. Its pace seems gentler than other Ethiopian cities.

Apart from lakeside relaxation, it’s one of the best places to visit in Northern Ethiopia because of the monasteries sprinkled around the shores of the lake. Bahir Dar is the departure point or boat trips to visit these, the closest of which is on Zege Peninusla, which sticks out into the lake north of the city. It’s a soothing 40-minute boat trip boat trip to the peninsula, where the main sight is the monastery and church of Ura Kidane Mehret. Some say that once you have seen it, you’ve them all. It’s a 15-minute gently uphill walk from the landing stage to the site itself, on which you are literally captive to a line of stalls each side selling tourist trash. Probably too many of the guides speak at best mangled English, which you may find especially frustrating given the importance and the fascination of the circular church which you find at the heart of the monastery. The interior walls are covered in paintings which are remarkable for their vivid primary colours and earthy, gory realism. Hope to catch a glimpse of a brightly robed monk. The old timber doors in African hardwood planks transport you to a pre-technological era.

Some travellers say the much longer expedition to Dek Island’s churches and monasteries is also worthwhile. Other memorable sights of Lake Tana include the large flock of pelicans often seen on a conspicuous sandbank in sight of the city; and the reed canoes used by lake fishermen. These are almost identical to ancient Nile canoes and demonstrate the connection lake and city had with Ancient Egypt via the Blue Nile, which exits the lake at the SE corner of Bahir Dar.

Probably the best place to stay in Bahir Dar is its Kuruftu Lodge, one of a chain. Much use is made of dark wood, stone and bougainvillea-covered thatch to give an ethnic feel, emphasised by vibrant African artworks. Staff waver between helpful and unengaged. There is WiFi in the lobby.