Leading up from the banks of the River Léguer to the main square, place Général-Leclerc, Lannion’s old town centre, is not particularly distinguished, but it is pleasant enough, and populous year round. There are two splendid houses on the square: No.31 with its carved wooden fa√笵cade, and the venerable edifice next door, faced in slate tiles which look like chain mail. If you squint, the windows could be Norman helmets with nose-pieces. At the end of the square, the 16th-17thC Eglise de Saint-Jean-du-Baly is entered by a diminutive door topped with a scallop shell.

If you want to pack a picnic and venture inland from Lannion, you’ll find plenty of secluded spots along this country route. Take the D11 south from Lannion. After 5 km, bear left on the D31B and follow signs to the Chapelle de Kerfons. Edged by chestnut trees, the 15th-16thC chapel has a traditional Breton calvary and carved figures decorate a pinnacled turret above the south transept. Return to the D31B, and head south for Château de Tonquédec (open Jul-Sep), which you will see poised dramatically above the road before you descend into a valley and cross the River Léguer. Though partially dismantled by Richelieu, the castle walls are still pretty impressive, and there are fine views from the old keep. Return to the D11, and continue south (1 km) to the turn-off for Château Kergrist, where you can spend a relaxing hour or so wandering in the grounds. The château itself is sandwiched between two contrasting facades, one Gothic and dating from the 14th-15thC; the other 18thC, overlooking formal terraced gardens which fall away into English-style landscaping and woodlands.