For centuries the lemon (limone) was the life-blood of this town on the Lombard shore of the lake. They claim that lemons were first grown here, which Sicilians hotly deny. Now the groves are full of campsites and Limone, hemmed in by near-vertical cliffs, trem­bles with the reverberation of tourist traffic in and out of the tunnels on the Gardesana (lakeside highway). Between here and Riva the scenery is too grand for close-up views. But to compensate you have the aromatic shrubbery and the sight, across 3 km of sparkling lake, of a similar array of cliffs, steep-to to the water and crowned with olives and flowering bushes.