Commercial centre of the Auge, Lisieux is somewhat short on the charm for which this region is renowned. However, this is of little consequence to the town’s chief stock-in-trade, the steady stream of pilgrims to the irredeemably tasteless neo-Byzantine Basilique de Sainte-Thérèse, erected in memory of St Theresa of Lisieux. Born Thérèse Martin at Alencon in 1873, the deeply pious young girl petitioned the pope to join a convent aged 15, and then went on to die of tuberculosis at only 24, having completed her spiritual memoires, History of a Soul.

St Theresa herself was fortunate enough to worship in the fine Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre, founded in 1170, with a splendid Flamboyant chapel commissioned by Pierre Cauchon, the bishop of Lisieux who stage-managed Joan of Arc’s trial for the English. Nearby, the Palais de Justice is housed in the former bishop’s palace overlooking pleasant public gardens. Lisieux has a couple of small museums, and you can make a tour of the various St Theresa sites including the Martin family home, Les Buissonnets. Rather more entertaining, the tourist information office provides maps to guide you around the cheese, cider and calvados producers of the Vallée de la Vie, stretching south of town towards Livarot (click here), Vimoutiers (click here) and Gacé. En route to Caen, Beuvron-en-Auge (28 km W via N13/D49) is one of the most picturesque Auge villages, full of delightful half-timbered buildings, plus a good restaurant.