45 km inland from Byron Bay. The main ‘city’ of north-east New South Wales, Lismore has a population of more than 45,000. Just over a century ago this was a booming timber town, until the lumberjacks became too enthusiastic and put themselves out of business. Now the surrounding countryside is mainly farmland. For some reason this region has long attracted artists and writers, as well as assorted colourful hangers-on. Another unexpectedly lively feature of Lismore is the thirsty life of the students from Southern Cross University.

On the river front you can pick up a cruise, or even take a day trip all the way down to Ballina on the coast. Anyone with time to spare should drive north of town into the woods and mountains, past the remote villages of the hinterland, many of which have some pleasantly oddball inhabitants, where you can be sure of seeing (and hearing) some truly breathtaking views. The best-known of these villages is Nimbin.