42 avettue des Gobelitts, 13e. Founded by Louis XIV, the royal tapestry workshops are now a state enterprise – the only way to survive if you weave in the old-fashioned way, a painstaking one square metre or so per year. Some of the antique looms date back to the 17thC, carpets and hand-sewn tapestries are also made here, but nothing is for sale. Every item is used in the refurbishment of government prop erties or as gifts. (Guided tours only Tues-Thur.)