The Massif des Maures is named for the old Provencal word maouro, meaning ‘dark forests’. The ragged, sun-baked hills are swathed in gnarled cork oaks and sweet chestnuts, vines grow on the few open slopes and valleys, and the handful of roads which penetrate into the Massif twist and turn savagely between ancient villages.

From Saint-Tropez there is an easy excursion into the foothills of the Massif via Grimaud (see above). From here the road (D558) continues to picturesque La Garde-Freinet (10 km N), site of a former Saracen stronghold. If you want to see more, head west for Collobrières, another ancient village, where you can stock up on delectable marronsg glacés from the local confiserie, and track down the isolated but lovely ruins of La Chartreuse de la Verne, a former monastery signposted off the Grimaud road (D14) 6 km E of the village.