31 km south of Reggio. After rain the sea is a scummy brown from two fiumare (short sharp torrents). Melito in between them marks the end of the bergamot strip and the start of the Jasmine Riviera. The white blossom is cropped in May and used in the manufacture of perfumes. For the rest of the year the jasmine fields look like potato allotments. Balanced on the mountain ledge above Melito is another village. One of Nature’s jokes, a five-fingered granite outcrop 61-m high, gives the place its Greek name: Pentedattilo (‘Five Fingers’). There is more to the story than that. In a complex Calabrian drama of sex and vendetta the families of two rival barons were wiped out and in a chamber of the ruined castle (you can still see it) a dying woman left her imprimatur of five bloody fingers.