On Route 38, 26 km North West of Bolzano. The little old river town has become a garden city, thanks to its popularity with German and Austrian visitors. They came for the wine-cure, then for hill-walking; now every car has skis on its roof. Shady avenues on the riverbank are labelled ‘winter’ and ‘summer’, at the bandstand an orchestra plays – there are beer gardens and wine bars everywhere. The old town, compressed between stream and mountain, consists of little more than the long arcaded Via dei Portici, a corridor of gift shops.