From Este, take Route 10 for 16 km. The 13thC walled town of Montagnana commands the old debatable land between the Vicenza and Verona provinces. The rectangular citadel is in amazingly fine shape. You enter, as did knights of old, through one of three majestic gates (that of ‘the Trees’ is now a youth hostel). On the large open square which extends in front of you is the 15thC cathedral with artistic treasures which would grace a much larger town. The masterpiece, above the altar, is Veronese’s Transfiguration.