Sydney is justly renowned for its nightlife, which comes into its own at weekends. Get the Metro section of the Sydney Morning Herald on Friday for a full listing of the coming week’s events. It goes without saying that Sydney has pubs like teenageers have acne. These hotels (ie pubs) can be scenes of heroic drinking sessions and are not for the fainthearted. However, the sweaty, guzzling mayhem of the weekends can often give way on weekday nights to scenes suspiciously resembling civilization. Most pubs have counter food of some kind, many of them have great live entertainment.

The most historic pub in town is the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel (www.lordnelsonbrewery.com) on Kent Street, The Rocks. They’ve been brewing their own beer here since the early convicts stepped ashore with ocean-sized thirsts. Nearby on Windmill Street is the almost equally historic Hero of Waterloo (www.heroofwaterloo.com.au). Only slightly more sedate is the oompa-pa music at The Löwenbrau (www.lowenbrau.com.au) on Argyle Street. The German ambience here recreates for the locals the atmosphere of the Munich Beer Festival which they visited, but can’t remember.

One of the best-known bars in the lively neon-lit entertainment district of Kings Cross is the Darlo Bar (www.darlobar.com.au)on Darlinghurst Street. This occupies a small block, but still has them spilling out at the weekends. The Royal Hotel (www.royal.com.au) near the Five Ways shops on Glenmore Road is a fine old renovated pub, complete with Victorian fittings and a restaurant with a balcony upstairs.

But if you want a fine view, a quiet drink and a bite to eat, try the Sydney Cove Oyster Bar (www.sydneycoveoysterbar.com) on East Circular Quay. Here you can sit outside, watch the boats and sample a schooner of Hahn, the ace local draught beer. On Sunday afternoons they have live jazz.