Few travellers stop without particular reason, but in its days as a maritime republic Noli was the biggest port on the coast west of Genoa. Arcaded streets and stairways confirm its antiquity. The old monuments are in decay but San Paragorio’s church and Monte Ursino Castle still put a brave face on the seascape, as they did when giving mariners their bearings past the headland. A fish soup called ciuppin is Noli’s contribution to culinary variety. The harbour and sea front are popular withsmall-boat sailors, water-skiers and water-parachutists. Cliff scenery is as impressive as anything in the Gulf of Genoa and the wildlife and botany are rare and rewarding.

As far inland as the autostrada (8 km) the whole promontory is a protected area. Panoramic roads give easy access and there are campsites among the forests of maritime pine. To climb the headland at Capo Noli take the steep track from Caverna dei Flasari 100 m west of the cavern mouth and follow the waymark (a red barred circle) to the summit at 280 m.