West of Rennes, the village of Paimpont (40 km via N24/D38, or buses to Les Forges-de-Paimpont, 4 km S) lies in the woods at the heart of ancient Brocéliande. According to Breton legend, the wizard Merlin (of Round Table fame) retired here to live in seclusion, and fell in love with a fairy, Viviane (aka the Lady of the Lake). The fairy trapped him in a magic circle, but although he had the power, Merlin had no desire to escape and remained happily enchanted deep in the forest.

A fraction of its original size, Brocéliande is now more prosaically known as the Forêt de Paimpont, but it is still a peaceful and relatively undisturbed corner of the world. There are several châteaux, such as the lake-side Château de Brocéliande, le Pas du Houx and Comper; also the austere Château de Trécesson. The Fontaine de Barenton is allegedly Merlin’s magic spring, where you can conjure up a storm by pouring water on the great stone slab of Perron de Merlino. The forest is strewn with pretty lakes, and there are interesting walks such as the Val Sans Retour, where legend has it that Merlin is still held captive in a prison of air. If you want somewhere to stay, the Relais de Brocéliande is a useful base with 25 rooms, and a restaurant. From here you could continue via Ploërmel to the beautifully situated Château de Josselin (see Brittany).