The national park, created in 1969, protects a broad swathe of sparsely populated hinterland curving south and west from its eastern border north of Huelgoat along the spine of the Monts d’Arrée to the Crozon peninsula and offshore to incorporate the islands of Molène and Ouessant (for the latter, see below). It is a wild region of desolate gorse-edged uplands and dense green woodlands shot through with streams, lakes, and rivers littered with huge moss-backed boulders. The highest ‘mountain’, Roc’h Trévezel (12 km north-west of Huelgoat, off the D785) rises to a mere 384 m, but Trévezel’s peaked crown jutting out of a windswept moorland plateau is impressively rugged and gives magnificent views north to the coast, and south past the Montagne Saint-Michel to the Montagnes Noires.

This is prime rambling country, and one of the few areas where backwoods camping is permitted. Accommodation and tourist facilities within the park are somewhat basic and in short supply. The lake-side town of Huelgoat is the best bet for supplies and hotels, but bursting with backpackers in summer, so book ahead.

For further information, see www.pnr-armorique.fr