www.tourisme-perigueux.fr. First settled by the ancient Petrocorii, then by the Romans, plump and prosperous Périgueux is the préfecture of Périgord and an important market centre for the winter truffle harvest. Although the sights of Périgueux are unlikely to detain visitors for more than a day, the town is a good base for Périgord Vert to the north, and for trains to les Eyzies for the prehistoric caves (see page 208).

The vieille ville clusters around the distinctly exotic looking Cathédrale de Saint-Front, poised like a runaway Byzantine mirage off rue Taillefer. It is topped by five domes in the shape of a Greek cross, and has a mammoth interior, impressive for its sheer size, but uncomfortably restored and rather lifeless. Handsome Renaissance houses tricked out with arches, carved scrolls, balustrades and balconies line the labyrinthine maze of streets. There are glimpses of the cathedral down tiny alleyways, and a galaxy of gourmet épiceries attempt (all too successfully) to seduce passers-by with gift-wrapped foie gras, confits, sticky walnut liqueurs and the ubiquitous truffles. Wednesday and Saturday morning markets on place du Coderc add fresh produce and crates of cackling volailles to the bulging Périgordian larder.

Alongside the usual run of fine china, European paintings and traditional crafts, the Musée du Périgord, 22 cours Tourny, displays artefacts from Roman Versunna (www.musee-perigord.museum.com). There are glass ornaments, beautiful mosaics and stacks of stone carvings in the garden cloister. The remains of Versunna lie west of the town centre, where the well-signposted Circuit Cité Antique traces a route around the truncated arena and semi-circular Tour de Versone, a brick shell once 20 m high and lined with marble.