Off the A1 on Route 9, 68 km South East of Milan. Hannibal fought Scipio at Piacenza and decimated the garrison of a town which then marked the northern limits of the Roman republic. Though long in the forefront of Lombard quarrels, Piacenza had a useful situation on the Trebbia and near the Po and was among the first places to enjoy a revival of commerce in the Middle Ages. Its cattle fair was once the largest in Europe. Open piazzas and terracotta brick give the town its charm. On the broad Piazza dei Cavalli the Palazzo del Commune and its prancing equestrian statues – huge horses, insignificant men – suggest a scene from a drama of chivalry. On the minor road to Bettola, 14 km south, the village of Grazzano Visconti is restored to its 14thC innocence with working craftsmen and artisans, an unusual ‘heritage’ ploy for Italy. On official holidays they wear traditional costume. Wood, pottery, metalwork and other craft items are for sale at somewhat inflated prices.