Like Herculaneum, classical Pompeii (note spelling) was destroyed in the volcanic eruption of AD 79. Ignore the gauntlet of tourist tat shops and fast food outlets by the entrance and immerse yourself in a vanished past, marvellously recreated after another, quite recent earthquake. Temples, patrician villas, mosaics and painted walls, with all the hotels, baths and storehouses of a Roman town are spread over 66 hectares. The wealth of relics and the atmosphere distract and pacify the loudest talkers among visitors. On a first visit, try at least to see the Forum, the two theatres, Via dell’ Abbondanza, the Amphitheatre, the Stabian baths, the houses of Menandro and the Vettii brothers (the last formerly the casa pornografica whose frescos were not shown to women until recently, but they are thin stuff compared with Italy’s late-night TV fare) and the Fauno, the Villa of Diomedes and the Misteri (‘Mysteries’), famed for its exceptionally beautiful and well-preserved frescos.

Pompei the modern town, 2 km away, has a florid 19thC sanctuary, several charitable schools and orphanages and a museum devoted to the history of Mount Vesuvius.