On Route 325, 20 km north west of Florence. The artists and academics know it well but it is overshadowed by the great art centres of Florence and Pistoia, and many people find it by accident. Judging by its considerable array of historic buildings and art treasures, Prato was not always in the shade. The town art gallery and 13thC Emperor’s castle (Holy Roman Emperor) are worth looking at, but the green-and-white-striped cathedral is the top attraction. Donatello designed the exterior pulpit. Inside, Fra Filippo Lippi frescoed one of his greatest works, Herod’s Feast. Contemporaries were disapproving of this holy man’s frank portrayal of Salome and outraged when he eloped with a local nun.

Detour – Pistoia

On the A11, 11 km North West of Prato. A delightful town of winding streets, flower and fruit markets, neat houses and several churches brightened with della Robbia medallions and friezes in polychrome terracotta. All this and the striped green-and-white facade of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas give Pistoia brilliance in art and colour.

Detour – Porretta Terme

On Route 64, 32 km North of Pistoia. Perched on the crest of Apennine the small town has long attracted a discerning clientele to its hotels and restaurants. The invalid element is concerned with gastric, rheumatic, diabetic and nervous complaints but the very air is a tonic and healthy people come long distances to take deep breaths and saunter among gardens and cool woods. There are splendid views north and south from the Porretta pass, 21 km to the south.