Somewhat off the tourist trail, Quimperlé marks the spot where the Rivers Ellé and Isole unite to form the Laïta for the final short stretch to the sea. The Old Town is cradled in a loop between the rivers, a muddle of medieval streets and Renaissance houses crowded around the 12thC Eglise de Sainte-Croix, which was modelled on Jerusalem’s Holy Sepulchre. Its Romanesque apse is original, and there are fine capitals in the crypt, but much else has had to be rebuilt.