www.tourisme-riomlimagne.fr. A quietly prosperous town of modest proportions and discreet charm, Riom was once the capital of the dukes of Auvergne. They ruled from a grand palace built by Jean de Berry in the 14thC, but only the Sainte Chapelle remains (worth a visit for its lovely stained glass). Vieux Riom dates from the 16th-17thC commercial boom. Its broad streets are lined with fine Renaissance buildings constructed from local volcanic stone and decorated with carvings.

The tourist office provides a free walking map which includes the Musée Mandet, 4 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville (www.ville-riom.fr/Musee-Mandet), housing archaeological finds and a so-so collection of paintings.

A must is the Eglise de Notre–Dame-du-Marthuret, rue du Commerce, which is not much to look at, but contains an enchanting 14thC statue of a Madonna and Child known as La Vierge à I’Oiseau – a tiny bird sits in the Child’s outstretched hand.