A village in two parts, the old farming community of Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut gathers on a hillock around the fine Auvergnat Romanesque Eglise de Saint-Nectaire, while the miniature spa of Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas is slipped like a ship in a bottle along the River Courancon.

The plain exterior of the 12thC church is relieved by carved lintels and animal heads around the ambulatory chapels, but the real works of art are the superb capitals of Old and New Testament scenes adorning the pillars of the nave and choir, plus the church treasure displayed in the transept.

Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas, with its apricot-painted casino, clutch of old-fashioned hotels and the tourist office has half-a-dozen fossil shops and a cave à fromages promoting the third Saint-Nectaire, a local cheese matured on beds of straw.