www.sainttropeztourisme.com. ‘Discovered’ by artist Paul Signac in 1892, the jet-set village of Saint-Tropez can actually claim a history BB (Before Bardot). Founded by the Greeks, the small fishing port lies on a peninsula facing a lovely sheltered bay. It is named for St Tropes, who, it is said, was decapitated by Nero in ancient Rome, his body placed in a small boat with a dog and a cockerel. The strange shipment finally wound up here, and the saint’s feast day is celebrated with a colourful bravade procession in mid-May.

Signac’s arrival initiated another procession, this time of Impressionist and Fauvist artists – Bonnard, Derain, Dufy, Vlaminck – who were followed by Colette and the Bohemian set in the 1920s and 30s. Roger Vadim’s 1956 Et Dieu Créa la Femme, starring Bardot, heralded a new generation of St-Trop fans, and the local fishing smacks were soon dwarfed by sleek, multi-million-dollar gin palaces, the fishermen outnumbered by fashionable glitterati.

At the heart of the action, the Vieux Port is encircled by busy quay-side cafes and restaurants facing a line-up of ritzy yachts. (Why are gladiolis so popular for their flower arrangements?) Gawpers pick a perilous path past ranks of artists’ easels.

For a lesson in local art history, look no further than the excellent Muséede I’Annonciade (www.sainttropeztourisme.com) on the west side of the harbour. A catalogue of the best in French painting from the period 1890-1940, there is marvellous local colour from the likes of Matisse, Seurat, Vuillard, Utrillo; Derain’s views of Westminster; a fine Maillol bronze; and comfy leather armchairs in which to sit and contemplate.

To reach the 16thC Citadelle, zigzag up the shady, narrow streets of the picturesque Old Town, thoughtfully designed to break the force of the mistral winds which lash the bay with startling ferocity, particularly in spring. From the ramparts of the hexagonal fortress there are terrific views, reaching as far as the Alps on a clear day; also a small maritime museum with sea-faring relics from a reconstructed Greek galley to a dissected torpedo.

Saint-Tropez’s beaches lie mainly to the south of town, a couple within easy walking distance. In summer, beach shuttle buses from place des Lices serve Les Salins, Tahiti-Plage, and its 5-km continuation, the sand strip called Pampelonne. Parking is expensive. There are sections of pay-beach which provide sun loungers and umbrellas; restaurants and concessionaires cater for the hungry and thirsty; and windsurfer boards are for hire at frequent intervals.

Behind Pampelonne, you can escape into the hills by taking the D93/D61 to Ramatuelle, then follow signs to Gassin, which is on a picturesque road (fine views) past three decrepit windmills. Once a Moorish stronghold, Gassin is tiny, pretty and well-stocked with seductive restaurants perfect for a long, lazy lunch or romantic dinner. Then drive north through the vineyards to join the D61/N98A.

You cannot reach Saint-Tropez by train, but there are buses from Saint-Raphaël and Toulon. Once there, mopeds and bicycles are readily available for hire. Be warned, accommodation is in very short supply in summer. Many hotels and restaurants close over the winter.